How to cut a kitchen worktop

How to cut a kitchen worktop

How to cut a kitchen worktop

Searching to give a current kitchen a makeover that won’t hurt your wallet? From re-finishing existing cabinet entrances to modernizing splashbacks, there’s a lot that can be done to renovate the look of the hub of your house.

Probably the most successfully impressive modifications you can make is to cut a new worktop. Changing among light and dark surface finishes or choosing a fresh material will set the coloration for the rest of the space.
The manual is supposed for layered worktops, but a lot of the actions apply similarly to strong wood surface types. These are also ideal joined up with a ‘mason’s mitre’ (the routed joint among 2 items of worktop) to attain a stylish finish and prevent the wastage of material that would happen using a full mitre.
Each wood worktops and layered areas are often clamped with each otherusing worktop bolts – though they will also contain biscuit joints to aid positioning.


Step 1:

Begin from the left from your kitchen area and job clockwise around it. Calculate the size of the 1st part and overcut it by a minimum of 70mm (use a jigsaw) to allow for a 20mm hang over and another 50mm for redirecting


Step 2:

Calculate and reduce the 2nd part of worktop to length, once more leaving at least 70mm additional. You will have to create a male mitre cut into the end of this part, by using a format jig and router fitted with a straight bit


Step 3:

Position the 2nd part on your trestles with the layered face down. Clamp the worktop template into the the male mitre location (this differs depending on the produce). Check the clamps don’t block the router


Step 4:

Position the router about the template. Set the height of cut to a maximum of 10mm and create a single complete cutting pass. Allow the blade end rotating ahead of taking away the router. Lower the blade by around 10mm and duplicate to full depth


Step 5:

About the same side as the earlier reduce, set the template up to create the bolt pit fixings. As before, cut down in increments of up to 10mm – but this time end when you have arrived at half way down


Step 6:

Position the mitred part of worktop on top of the basic units, using the mitre against the 1st part. Tag the bolt pit placements beneath. Apply masking tape, a pen and square to tag the deep and starting place of the lady mitre


Step 7:

Put the 1st part of worktop on top of the trestles with the layered facing up. Operate the template’s woman peg slots to put the jig and after that cut the female mitre using the similar incremental procedure such as fourth step


Step 8:

Cut the bolt holes in to this extend of worktop, making sure they are going to lineup with the counterparts. Use you router reduce the hang over to about 20mm – this provides an extremely cleaner slice than a jigsaw or handsaw


Step 9:

Put the a couple of mitred parts with each other about the base units and verify they fit correctly. Cut strips of laminate edging a little bit lengthier than the worktop sides and apply contact adhesive to the backing and the open face


Step 10:

As soon as the adhesive is contact dry, connect the edging strip with a small overhang all round. Carefully touch with the face of a hammer to flatten. File extra laminate with a soft way up action and age the join with a felt tip


Step 11:

Move the worktop away from the wall. Put some masking tape near 1 end of the correcting bolts to avoid them rotating, before operating some colour-fill joint sealant across the edge that’s to be joined


Step 12:

Press the worktops with each other and clamp. Work with a spanner to make tighter the bolts from below. Remove excess sealant and wipe down with acetone on a towel. Take away the clamps and screw into place with fixing brackets.

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